Ponerorchis graminifolia

Pleione, Calanthe, Bletilla ir kt. rūšys bei hibridai

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mozaika
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Ponerorchis graminifolia

Post by mozaika »

Urze wrote:
Thu May 24, 2012 9:54 am
Čia yra puikus straipsnis (anglų k.) apie jas (gal ir google vertėjas pagelbėtų). Japonai Ponerorchis graminifolia vadina UTYOURAN.
Galabas to straipsnio, kad nepasimestų:
UTYOURAN may be of great interest to the Pleione lover since its requirements are similar to those of pleiones: a semi-shady place with a moist atmosphere and plenty of fresh air. During most of the autumn, winter, and again most of the spring, while dormant, no water is needed, but the air should be sufficiently moist (as for Pleione). Temperatures during the peak of dormancy, in winter, should be around 0 to 5° C, again, similar to Pleione. Please consider that they grow in very loose soil and are covered with heavy snow during winter, therefore protection against frost is needed.

Pots, Medium and Fertiliser
Unlike Pleione, UTOUYORAN develop only a very few and thick roots that like to grow vertically down into the soil: deep pots, not pans, with a large drainage hole are required. The plants like to grow in a light and loose medium with perfect drainage. The Japanese use a fine grainy medium that resembles coarse sand, but it is porous and much lighter. It consists of unburned miniature clay pebbles. This material is not available in our garden centres. Therefore, experiments should be conducted, trying different materials to optimise growth. The following medium can be used without fatalities on behalf of the plants, but as just mentioned further improvements might be required. The mix could consist of two parts finely beaten Seramis© (without the dust), one part fine perlite (again, without the dust) and one part dark, loose humus. This medium should be pH-neutral. It needs to be replaced for each new growing season to assure that the humus doesn?t compact, blocking the required free drainage. To grow substantial tubers, bearing large flower trusses with lots of large blossoms, fertilisation is required. Japanese growers use a balanced organic slow-release fertiliser, which is placed on the soil surface and releases its nutrients during watering.

The Growing Season
Between the end of March and the middle of April newly purchased tubers should be planted, or older ones replanted. For a single tuber a deep pot of not more than three inches wide is suitable, but plants probably look better if they are grown in small groups of one single cultivar. The tubers? eyes, from which the growth originates, must be on top, and should be covered by about half an inch of substrate. Distance between tubers should also be about half an inch.

Once the temperature rises (slowly and gradually, a sudden increase will make the plants ?shoot?) the growth will finally show up on the surface and slowly grow taller, unfold its leaves and later burst into flower. Flowering may last up to a month, after that the plants remain green until the late summer or early fall; all upper parts of the plants will have died by then. The tubers? roots will eventually also die while the plant is getting ready for its long dormancy.

Watering should begin once the growth shows up on the soil surface, and fertilisation two or three weeks after. Both continue until shortly after the leaves have died, when the temperature gradually begins to fall to autumn levels. Between waterings, the medium?s surface should be allowed to dry. During the months of dormancy plants must be kept cold, and no water should be given until the next spring.
Tai žiemot, kaip supratau, gali kartu su plejonėmis šaldytuve. :)

Ir dar va čia informacijos nemažai.
Plants go dormant in Autumn or early winter, most growers remove them from the pots and store them with perlite or vermiculite in a plastic bag in the fridge. Take care not to expose the tubers to dry air as this generally makes the tuber shrivel.
andriuxplind2 wrote:
Sun May 19, 2013 10:14 am
MrGreen wrote:tik pirmas žiedas šiam mažam ir jaunam augalui, lauksim kitų metų ir daugiau žiedų :D
Vau! Mano tai kitoks :w00t: O iš to paties ūkio. Pasilikau sau be žiedų, bet pasirodo, kad užsiaugino nerealų žiedyną :w00t: Substrate jau pasirodė kažkoks 'pypsas' šalia didžiojo augalo
IMG_20130519_111445.jpg
IMG_20130519_111445.jpg (161.2 KiB) Viewed 1381 times
MrGreen wrote:
Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:35 pm
Tiek daug gražių variacijų yra, kad... :heartsfade:
http://crispata.tea-nifty.com/photos/po ... index.html

Maniškės visos ilsisi, o viena sugalvojo naują ūglį augintis :doh: nors daugumoje lit. šaltinių rašo, kad be lapkričio vidurio ar gruodžio pradžios ji sudygti neturėtų :think: Turiu keturias skirtingas, visos stovi kartu, bet tik viena sumastė per anksti augti, teks dabar laistyti ir tręšti, kad gumbelius užauginti. Nemėgstu kai augalai auga tada kai jie turėtų "miegoti", bet kai mes auginam "ekstremaliom sąlygom" t.y. ant palangių(kur sąlygos ne įdealios), tai visko pasitaiko....
mozaika wrote:
Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:47 pm
MrGreen, kaip žiemoja Ponerorchis?
MrGreen wrote:
Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:03 pm
Labai įvairiai, vienos miega, kitos sudygę, o viena jau žiedpumpurius augina.
vork wrote:
Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:59 pm
Aš galvoju jau traukti iš šaldytuvo ir sodinti.Matau jau ir daigeliai kalasi.Pernai traukiau mėn.vėliau,bet manau dabar jau laikas,užteks parpti,laikas keltis.Kaip pas kitus? :think:
Vieni turi proto, o kiti neturi, ir viskas. /Mikė Pukuotukas/

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